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‘Taste of home’: New Latino- and Hispanic- owned restaurants serve up culture alongside cuisine

Alaska Public Media | ByTegan Hanlon

Published August 29, 2024 at 4:35 PM AKDT

During dinner time at  Salsa Oaxaqueña in Anchorage Alaska, patrons are often serenaded. In the back corner of the small Spenard restaurant is a stage with a large standing bluetooth speaker and a microphone. Cezar Flores often performs in the restaurant, belting out corridos, rancheras, mariachis and other traditional music from Mexico and Latin America. 

“It’s beautiful, he said. “Other places have a radio, but here it’s like real people, real singers, real everything. Live music, especially for Alaska, I love it.” 

Siblings Rosi and Abraham Martinez Marthel, along with his wife Selena Vázquez-Lopez, are part-owners of the new restaurant, which opened July 1. It was Abraham’s idea to offer karaoke.

“A family member came and started singing and people liked it,” Vázquez-Lopez said. “They thought it was something different. But, anyone who likes to sing is welcome to sing.”

The family moved to Alaska from Mexico in the last decade. They’re part of a growing Latino and Hispanic community in Anchorage. Inspired by a desire to share cultures, create community spaces and bring something new to the Alaska restaurant scene, Salsa Oaxaqueña is just one of several new Hispanic and Latino-owned restaurants that have opened in Anchorage this year. 

Rosi Martinez Marthel, one of Salsa Oaxaqueña ’s part-owners, hold a tortilla in their kitchen. (Young Kim)

During dinner time at  Salsa Oaxaqueña in Anchorage, patrons are often serenaded. In the back corner of the small Spenard restaurant is a stage with a large standing bluetooth speaker and a microphone. Cezar Flores often performs in the restaurant, belting out corridos, rancheras, mariachis and other traditional music from Mexico and Latin America. 

“It’s beautiful, he said. “Other places have a radio, but here it’s like real people, real singers, real everything. Live music, especially for Alaska, I love it.” 

Siblings Rosi and Abraham Martinez Marthel, along with his wife Selena Vázquez-Lopez, are part-owners of the new restaurant, which opened July 1. It was Abraham’s idea to offer karaoke.

“A family member came and started singing and people liked it,” Vázquez-Lopez said. “They thought it was something different. But, anyone who likes to sing is welcome to sing.”

The family moved to Alaska from Mexico in the last decade. They’re part of a growing Latino and Hispanic community in Anchorage. Inspired by a desire to share cultures, create community spaces and bring something new to the Alaska restaurant scene, Salsa Oaxaqueña is just one of several new Hispanic and Latino-owned restaurants that have opened in Anchorage this year. 

And these new businesses aren’t limited to the city. Lina Mariscal, owner of the French Bakery and the editor of Anchorage’s Spanish newspaper, Sol De Medianoche, said she’s noticed a handful of new Latino and Hispanic-owned eateries popping up across the state. 

“It’s exciting to see just how much new business we have, how many different ways of preparing something there is,” she said.

Alaska’s Hispanic and Latino population grows

In Kenai, where Mariscal first lived when she moved here with her family in 1983, a new Puerto Rican food truck called  Ay Que Rico also opened up this month. Since she first arrived on that sunny August day in 1983, Alaska’s Hispanic and Latino population has  grown rapidly. 

“When we lived in Kenai, the only Spanish-speaking families were my grandma and us,” she said. “And every time you heard Spanish somewhere, you were excited to hear it, and it was just something that you know, you were not expecting.”

If you go:

Salsa Oaxaquena

3505 Spenard Road, Suite B

Anchorage, Alaska 99503

907-865-5375

www.SalsaOaxaquena.com

See MENU & Order

Salsa Oaxaqueña Restaurant Dining Review

Dining review: Midtown Mexican food options are increasing, and increasingly tasty

By Mara Severin | Eating out 

Updated: September 13, 2024Published: September 13, 2024


Salsa Oaxaqueña Restaurant

On the other end of the spectrum and decidedly less shiny is Salsa Oaxaquena, a small, quirky spot in a Spenard strip mall with offerings authentic enough to have me covertly googling the dishes on their menu (alas, no photos or descriptions were available to help). I dropped in, solo, for lunch, opting for the carne asada tacos ($22.50) on the sole basis that I had something to compare them to. I also ordered dinner to go — a chicken mole platter ($28) and a beef huarache ($24). I ordered the mole because it is a favorite of my husband’s and I ordered the huarache because, when I googled it, I got a picture of Don Johnson from Miami Vice. Huarache, it turns out, means sandal. As a child of the ‘80s, I considered it a good sign.

The dining room is homey and pleasant if a bit scrappy. It’s a spare space well-served by the lively Mexican pop music playing and there is — intriguingly — a small stage with a mic on which a white cowboy hat was hung. Rumor has it that in the evening, the stage is open for Mexican-inspired karaoke with locals singing rancheras, mariachis and corridos. They had me at the white cowboy hat.

This restaurant is still getting its legs under it, so there are a few kinks that I expect will get ironed out (like the lack of descriptions on the menu). The first is that, with the tacos, you are given a choice of either store-bought tortillas and a side of rice and beans OR house-made tortillas with no rice and beans. This feels like a tacit confession that they’re serving something they don’t think is top-notch. I opted for the house-made tortillas and suggest you do the same. They are excellent and with more flavor than you can find inside a grocery store bag.

The second is that the food takes time. Everything is made to order and you can hear the crackle and sizzle of the grill from behind the counter. That said, it was worth the wait. The carne asada was smoky and well-seasoned, and I loved the salsa bar with adorable pig-shaped molcajetes filled with salsa verde, avocado sauce, grilled peppers and heaps of cut limes.

The salsa bar from Salsa Oaxaquena. (Photo by Mara Severin)

The huarache was a hit at home. With cool cabbage and avocado toppings atop a hot (sandal-shaped) tortilla, fried beans and meat, I recommend that you eat it quickly before the salad wilts. I loved the balance of bright and crispy toppings with the deep, earthy flavors of the beans and the savory spice on the meat. Next time, I’ll enlist the help of a pizza cutter, and order one as an appetizer.

But for me, the meal of the day was the chicken mole. The dish is startlingly, intriguingly dark — almost black — and the flavor is as deep as the color. The sauce is steeped in earthy spices with a slow heat that lingers on your tongue. The chicken is fall-off-the-bone tender and the rice and beans were well cooked, with just the perfect al dente bite in the grains. I was pretty much stuffed after all this feasting, but over the next few hours, I kept going back to the chicken — a bite off the leg here and a sip of the sauce there. Let’s just say my husband didn’t get his fair share.

chicken mole at Salsa Oaxaqueña in Anchorage Alaska

If you go:

Salsa Oaxaquena

3505 Spenard Road, Suite B

Anchorage Alaska 99503

907-865-5375

Order Online at : www.SalsaOaxaquena.com